The allure of the Italian Riviera in the 1920s, a time of glamour, post-war change, and burgeoning tourism, forms the captivating backdrop for the popular historical drama, Hotel Portofino. Audiences are transported to a world of sun-drenched coastlines, elegant hotels, and intricate social dynamics, all seemingly unfolding in the picturesque town of Portofino, Italy. However, as is often the case with cinematic magic, the beautiful scenes we witness on screen are not always shot in the exact locations they portray. The truth behind the filming of Hotel Portofino reveals a fascinating journey to a different, yet equally stunning, corner of the Mediterranean Sea: Croatia.
The show, which follows the experiences of Bella Ainsworth, a British hotelier who opens a luxury hotel for affluent travelers in post-World War I Italy, perfectly captures the period’s elegance and complexities. While the narrative is firmly rooted in the charm and history of Liguria, the region where the real Portofino is situated, the production team made a strategic decision to recreate this ambiance by leveraging the architectural splendor, stunning natural landscapes, and historical richness found along the Croatian coast. This choice allowed for the creation of a visually authentic world that mirrors the desired aesthetic of the Italian Riviera, providing viewers with an immersive experience that blurs the lines between its fictional setting and its actual filming locales.
The Allure of the Italian Riviera and the Fictional Hotel Portofino
The idea of a grand hotel nestled on the Italian Riviera immediately conjures images of timeless sophistication, sun-drenched terraces, and breathtaking sea views. The period setting of the 1920s adds another layer of intrigue, depicting a society grappling with the aftermath of a global conflict while simultaneously embracing new freedoms and a flourishing tourism industry. Hotel Portofino is not merely a setting; it is a character in itself, a hub where diverse individuals from various backgrounds converge, each with their own secrets, aspirations, and struggles.
Bella Ainsworth’s vision for her establishment embodies the spirit of an era seeking beauty and escapism. Her ambition to create a haven for discerning guests, offering them an unparalleled experience of Italian hospitality and the splendor of the coast, is central to the show’s narrative. The fictional hotel, with its elegant suites, bustling dining room, and panoramic vistas, becomes a microcosm of the wider social and political currents of the time. From romantic dalliances to burgeoning political tensions, the hotel serves as the stage for a rich tapestry of human stories. The success of the show hinges on its ability to convincingly transport viewers to this specific time and place, making the choice of filming locations paramount in establishing its authentic atmosphere. The challenge for the production was to find a location that not only looked like the Italian Riviera of the 1920s but also offered the practicalities required for a large-scale television production, leading them to the unexpected shores of Croatia.
Unveiling the Real Filming Locations: Croatia’s Cinematic Canvas
The magic of cinema often lies in its ability to transport us to different worlds, even if those worlds are meticulously recreated far from their actual geographical inspirations. For Hotel Portofino, the production team found its perfect doppelgänger for the Italian Riviera in the stunning coastal regions of Croatia. This Balkan nation, renowned for its pristine beaches, ancient cities, and a coastline dotted with charming towns, offered an abundance of locations that perfectly mirrored the aesthetic and architectural style needed to bring 1920s Portofino to life. From grand hotels to historic town squares and breathtaking natural vistas, Croatia’s Istria and Kvarner Bay regions provided an authentic canvas for the series.
Opatija: The Stand-In for the Iconic Hotel
Perhaps the most crucial location for Hotel Portofino was finding a suitable stand-in for the hotel itself. This honor went to the elegant coastal town of Opatija in Croatia. Often referred to as the “Pearl of the Adriatic,” Opatija has a long history as a fashionable resort town, particularly during the Austro-Hungarian era when it was known as Abbazia. Its Belle Époque architecture, grand villas, and lush parks make it an uncanny match for the old-world glamour of the Italian Riviera.
The exterior shots of the fictional Hotel Portofino are primarily filmed using various buildings in and around Opatija. Specific locations believed to be used include parts of the historic Villa Angiolina and other luxurious villas that line the famous Lungomare promenade. These structures, with their ornate facades, spacious balconies, and stunning sea views, perfectly encapsulate the opulence and charm required for Bella Ainsworth’s establishment. The interiors, too, were likely created within these historical buildings or meticulously designed sets that mirrored their grandeur, allowing for seamless transitions between the hotel’s public spaces and private suites. Opatija’s overall atmosphere, with its manicured gardens and elegant waterfront, imbues the series with an authentic sense of luxury and historical depth, making it an ideal central filming hub.
Coastal Gems: Lovran and Rovinj’s Picturesque Charm
Beyond the primary hotel setting, Hotel Portofino also utilizes other Croatian coastal towns to depict the wider landscape of the Italian Riviera. The charming town of Lovran, located just a short distance from Opatija, contributed significantly to the series’ picturesque backdrop. Known for its well-preserved medieval old town, fishing port, and beautiful villas, Lovran offers cobblestone streets and quaint squares that evoke the timeless character of a small Italian coastal community. Scenes requiring a quintessential Riviera village feel, with its local interactions, markets, and unassuming beauty, would find their home here.
Further down the Istrian peninsula, the iconic town of Rovinj also played a role. Rovinj is arguably one of Croatia’s most visually stunning towns, famous for its colorful houses cascading down to the sea, narrow winding streets, and the prominent church of St. Euphemia perched atop a hill. Its Venetian architectural influences and vibrant harbor make it an excellent stand-in for any number of idyllic Italian coastal towns. While specific scenes shot in Rovinj might be subtle, its overall ambiance certainly contributes to the show’s rich visual tapestry, particularly for establishing shots or scenes requiring a bustling, yet charming, port town atmosphere.
Urban and Historical Backdrops: Rijeka and Pula’s Versatility
For scenes requiring a more urban or historically significant backdrop, the cities of Rijeka and Pula provided the necessary versatility. Rijeka, Croatia’s third-largest city and a major port, offers a mix of Austro-Hungarian architecture and a more industrial, bustling feel. Its city streets, grand squares, and various historical buildings can easily be transformed to represent larger Italian cities or more prominent urban centers that the characters might visit for business or social engagements. The Korzo, Rijeka’s main pedestrian promenade, with its elegant buildings, could effectively stand in for similar avenues in Italy.
Meanwhile, Pula, known for its incredibly well-preserved ancient Roman Amphitheatre and other classical ruins like the Temple of Augustus, offers a completely different kind of historical depth. While the show is set in the 1920s, glimpses of ancient structures or historically resonant locations can add gravitas or a sense of timelessness. Though Pula’s Roman heritage might seem out of place for a story primarily set on the Italian Riviera, its versatility as a historical location means it can provide diverse backdrops – from ancient ruins that hint at the region’s long history to more modern, yet period-appropriate, urban settings. The ability of these Croatian cities to chameleon-like transform into various facets of 1920s Italy underscores the success of the production’s location scouting.
Capturing the Spirit of the Italian Riviera in Croatia
The decision to film Hotel Portofino in Croatia rather than Italy was a testament to Croatia’s remarkable ability to mimic the aesthetic and atmosphere of its western Mediterranean counterpart. The similarities are striking: both coastlines boast azure waters, dramatic cliffs, charming fishing villages, and towns steeped in history with strong Venetian and Austro-Hungarian architectural influences. This shared heritage, particularly evident in Croatia’s Istrian and Kvarner regions, made it a natural choice for replicating the Italian Riviera’s golden age.
Beyond the visual appeal, the logistical advantages of filming in Croatia likely played a significant role. The country offers competitive production incentives, a skilled local crew base, and a less congested environment compared to some of Italy’s more famous, and therefore busier, coastal towns. This allowed the production team to secure access to pristine locations and maintain greater control over their elaborate period sets without the constant interruptions that might occur in highly touristed areas.
Ultimately, the goal was not merely to find a lookalike but to capture the spirit of the Italian Riviera – its elegance, its underlying tensions, and its unique blend of natural beauty and human drama. The sun-drenched landscapes of Croatia, combined with the authentic period details meticulously recreated by the production design team, succeeded in crafting a convincing and immersive world for the viewer. The show perfectly illustrates how thoughtful location scouting, coupled with creative storytelling, can bridge geographical distances and bring a historical narrative to vibrant life, making the viewer forget they aren’t actually in Portofino, Italy.
Planning Your Own Riviera-Inspired Escape: Visiting the Filming Sites and Beyond
For fans of Hotel Portofino and anyone captivated by the glamour of the 1920s Riviera, a trip to the actual filming locations in Croatia offers a unique travel experience. Exploring Opatija, Lovran, Rijeka, Pula, and Rovinj allows visitors to literally step into the scenes of the show while also discovering the independent charm and beauty that these Croatian destinations possess.
Visiting the Filming Locations:
- Opatija: Stroll along the Lungomare, admire the Belle Époque villas that inspired the fictional Hotel Portofino, and soak in the historical ambiance. Consider staying in one of its grand hotels, many of which date back to the same era as the show.
- Lovran: Explore the medieval old town, enjoy fresh seafood by the harbor, and appreciate the quieter, authentic coastal life that would have been common in the 1920s.
- Rovinj: Wander through the winding cobblestone streets, climb to the Church of St. Euphemia for panoramic views, and immerse yourself in the Venetian charm that makes it a perfect stand-in for the Italian Riviera.
- Rijeka & Pula: For a blend of urban exploration and ancient history, visit Rijeka’s city center and Pula’s impressive Roman ruins. These cities provide a broader context to Croatia’s diverse heritage, demonstrating why it’s such a versatile filming location.
Embracing the Riviera Lifestyle:
Even if you can’t jet off to the Adriatic immediately, you can embrace the Riviera lifestyle inspired by Hotel Portofino wherever you are. This could mean indulging in Italian-inspired cuisine, enjoying a classic cocktail on a sunny patio, or simply appreciating beautiful architecture and natural landscapes. The show serves as a delightful reminder of the enduring appeal of luxury travel, historical charm, and the timeless beauty of the Mediterranean coast. Whether you choose to visit the real Portofino in Italy or embark on an adventure to Croatia’s cinematic landscapes, the spirit of Hotel Portofino is an invitation to explore, discover, and savor the finer things in life.
